Barolo 2009 m.
Tomas Maresca buvo visiškai nusivylęs šia 2009 m. Degustacija, nurodydamas vyndarių nesugebėjimą išsiaiškinti, kaip sunku buvo derlius, kaip vieną iš šio „niūrio“ pasirodymo priežasčių.
„Nedaugelis 2009-ųjų pateisino optimizmą dėl jų ilgaamžiškumo ir dauguma gamintojų kalbėjo apie 2009-uosius kaip apie trumpalaikio gėrimo derlių“
2009 m Barolo vartotojai susidurs su šiurkščiomis tiesomis ir šiurkščiais vynais. Aš paragavau daugiau nei 200 „Barolo 2009“ pavyzdžių „Nebbiolo Prima“, Alboje, gegužę. Daugumai siūlomų vynų per penkias renginio dienas ne tik trūko klasikinės Nebbiolo spalvos, bet ir beveik nebuvo Nebbiolo aromatų ar skonių.
Aš myliu „Barolo“ ir gerbiu ir žaviuosi daugeliu jo prodiuserių už jų atsidavimą ir vizijos aiškumą. Vis dėlto turiu pasakyti, kad šiame derinyje daugelio jų pasirodymas ne tik netrūko, bet ir buvo niūrus.
Žinoma, buvo išimčių: keli gamintojai - „Giacomo Fenocchio“, „Aldo Conterno“, „Prunotto“ - kai kuriems pasirodė gana geriami „Barolo“. Keletas - ypač Pio Cesare ir Massolino-Vigna Rionda - netgi tiki savo vyno senėjimo potencialu. Tokiai nuomonei dažnai pritarė prekybininkai ir pirkėjai, kurie paragavo šių vynų pasirinkimo savaite anksčiau nei žurnalistai, ir su gamintojais (ne aklais). Bet mano gomuriu - ir daugelio mano kalbintų žurnalistų nuomone - dauguma „Barolo“ kūrėjų, atrodo, labai nuvertino šio derliaus sunkumus. Nedaugelis 2009-ųjų pateisino optimizmą dėl jų ilgaamžiškumo, ir dauguma gamintojų kalbėjo apie 2009-uosius kaip trumpalaikio gėrimo derlių.
„Giacomo Conterno“ iš „Aldo Conterno“ vyninės Monforte komunoje buvo vienas iš atviresnių gamintojų. Jis sakė: „2009 m. Buvo vynuogių augintojo derlius. Rugpjūčio pabaigoje kai kurie [Nebbiolo] vynmedžiai jau buvo beveik prinokę, o kai kurie buvo visiškai neprinokę - beveik 30 dienų skirtumas tarp jų. Tai, ką jūs padarėte, nustatė, kokį vyną gaminote. “Šiais metais derinamas„ Consorzio “derliaus įvertinimas yra labai saugus:
„2009 m. Derlius taip pat bus įsimenamas dėl netaisyklingo nokinimo modelio ... Kalbant apie technologinį brendimą, derlius gali būti laikomas 2003–2007 m.… Kalbant apie fenolio brendimą ... vynuogėse rasti duomenys buvo palyginami su 2003 m. šio derliaus rezultatai ne visada buvo pagerinti atidėjus derlių “.
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Parašė Tomas Maresca
Įdomios Straipsniai
