„Terroir“ yra vienas iš tų skambių žodžių, kuriuos visi vyno pasaulyje priima, bet ką tai iš tikrųjų reiškia? Ir ar tikrai tai daro poveikį vynams, apie kuriuos teigia gamintojai? Rupertas Džiaugsmas įsigilina, kad sužinotų
„Terroir“ yra vienas iš tų skambių žodžių, kuriuos visi vyno pasaulyje priima, bet ką tai iš tikrųjų reiškia? Ir ar tikrai tai daro poveikį vynams, apie kuriuos teigia gamintojai? Rupertas Džiaugsmas įsigilina, kad sužinotų
kodėl dr Charlesas vežimėlyje Čikagos med
Į pietus nuo Condrieu, šiaurinėje Ronos dalyje, yra nedidelis Château-Grillet pavadinimas. Jos 3,4 hektaro vynmedžių, esančių stačiuose natūralaus amfiteatro šlaituose, metu gaunamas nedidelis kiekis vyno iš tos pačios vynuogių veislės ir dirvožemio, kaip ir daug didesnio kaimyno Condrieu. Tačiau nuo 1936 m. Jis buvo pripažintas atskiru kintamosios srovės aparatu ir parduodamas už daug daugiau. Jo savininkas Isabelle Baratin-Canet pabrėžia, kad vyno, pagaminto iš jo granito dirvožemio ir į pietus nukreiptos ekspozicijos, originalumas buvo pripažintas šimtmečius. Tačiau kai kurie jos kaimynai abejoja, ar yra toks skirtumas tarp Château-Grillet ir Condrieu terjerų.
Idėja, kad tam tikruose žemės lopinėliuose gaminami ypač puikūs vynai, nėra nauja. 1677 metais Bordo aplankęs filosofas Johnas Locke'as atkreipė dėmesį į Château Haut-Brion „ypatingumą dirvožemyje“, kuris jį išskyrė iš kaimynų. Abboto Arnoux knygoje, išleistoje Londone 1728 m., Burgundijos Montrachet didybė buvo priskirta tam tikrai žemės juostai Dramblio Kaulo Krante.
Šiuolaikinis reiškinys yra žodžio „terroir“ naudojimas idėjai apibūdinti. Originalios prancūziškos konotacijos buvo pejoratyvios. Iki 20 amžiaus vidurio vin terroité reiškė kaimišką, žemišką vyną, geriausiu atveju pasižymintį tam tikru yokelio žavesiu ir, blogiausiu atveju, ydomis. Vynas su goût de terroir (terroir skoniu) buvo niekingai pagamintas vynas, kurio skonis buvo neprinokusių ar supuvusių vynuogių. Terroir kaip pozityvesnio atributo idėja kilo tik tada, kai 1930-aisiais gimė AC sistema.
Kiekvienas turi savo terroir apibrėžimą. Bene paprasčiausias yra amerikiečių vyno rašytojas Mattas Krameris, apibūdinantis tai kaip „kažkokią savybę“. Daugumoje prancūziškų apibrėžimų, įskaitant INAO (įstaiga, atsakinga už Prancūzijos kintamosios srovės sistemą), pateikiami keturi pagrindiniai elementai: fizinės vietos savybės (ypač dirvožemis ir poveikis), jos klimatas, naudojama vynuogių veislė ir žmogaus vaidmuo. .
jaunas ir neramus Kevinas
Nedaugelis žmonių ginčytų pagrindinę prielaidą, kad vynai turi tam tikrų savybių iš jų vynuogių auginimo vietos ir kad žmogus vaidina svarbų vaidmenį išreiškiant šias savybes. Tačiau turint omenyje, kad beveik kiekvienas vyno gamintojas šiais laikais teigia gaminantis vyną, kuris gerbia terroir, ir teigia, kad laikosi „neintervencinio“ požiūrio, vartotojas turi visas priežastis susimąstyti, ką terroir reiškia praktiškai.
kuris praėjusią naktį patyrė Ameriką, turėjo talentą
Terroir šaknys
Galbūt todėl, kad šis žodis yra panašus į „reljefas“, mes dažniausiai siejame terroir su dirvožemiu. Tai savo ruožtu gali paskatinti suvokti, kad vynai skonį tiesiogiai gauna iš dirvožemio, kuriame jie auginami.
Klasikinis pavyzdys yra „Chablis“, vienas geriausiai atpažįstamų vynų pasaulyje. Nepaisant to, kad jis gaminamas iš visur esančios vynuogių veislės, Chardonnay Chablis išraiška skiriasi nuo bet kurio kito regiono. Labiausiai žinomi vynai gaunami iš minkštos kimmeridžiškos kreidos mergaitės, sudarytos iš priešistorinių austrių lukštų.
Gamintojai ir vyno rašytojai dažnai susieja vynui būdingą titnaginį jodo skonį ir regiono geologiją. „Kaip kitaip paaiškinti joduotas užrašus Chablis, jei ne jo dirvožemio sudėtis?“ - klausia Bernardas Billaudas-Simonas. „Šio skonio nerandate kitur užaugintuose„ Chardonnays “.
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Įdomios Straipsniai
